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Lance A Boyle <Lance_Bo...@shaw.ca>:
Sure. But too much toxic, carcinogenic plastic tubing is way
more toxic and carcinogenic than too much wholesome, delicious
beer.
Scott S

I eat food. Depending on which way the wind is blowing, someone is
telling me that specific foods are good or bad. I am convinced that the
idea of _moderation_ is more important than what you eat.
I'm not going out of my way to convince myself that beer is good for me.
But I am not willing to accept the idea that it's poison either, in

If I could drive to a LHBS within 20 minutes or so from my house I
would do the same. There is some virtue in supporting local merchants.
They're great to have around when you need them, and they won't be
there is we don't support them.
But I live in southern Maryland, and the nearest store I know of is

To Scott, Dan, Beerboyfeelgood and Denny
It's been a month since I bottled the Cincinnati style Beer and it is
quite tasty. Thanks for the help.
Mike

Hey, we all do lots of things that aren't good for us, and yet we enjoy
them anyways. I eat beef, dairy, salt, sugar. I like all of them, and
yet none of them are too good for me. Beer is the same.
It never ceases to amuse me how people that are interested in whatever
hobby, will seek out to find reasons to to convince themselves that

I do not think you would receive any benefit from this unless you had a
track with wheels that it will roll down with little effort. I think trying
to push that hoist with a full carboy on it would tear up your back just as
much. If you were looking at taking a full carboy off the ground and the

I would but prices just aren't right, even considering shipping costs. If they
were more reasonable I would do all my shopping there.. but I need to stretch
every penny. They need to be more competitive tp get my business. And anyways,
if this LHBS closes (which they won't), I can still mailorder everything I need.

Dan Logcher <dlogcher*xsp...@comcast.net> wrote in
news:495e36bd$0$311$b45e6eb0@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu:
I prefer to keep my money in the local economy. The guys at the LHBS are
great and I wouldn't want the shop to dry up and blow away. If I can't get
the quality parts I'm looking for I'll mail order but the grains and stuff

Dan Logcher <dlogcher*xsp...@comcast.net> wrote in
news:495e343e$0$311$b45e6eb0@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu:
I'm down with that. Wouldn't get to fired up over 5 bux m'self.
Rick

It sounds like you want to look into propane HERMS systems and see how they
control the Hot Liquor Tank sparge temperatures. Although your temps are
very low compared to brewing spare temperatures, the equipment and approach
should be the same.
Scott

More importantly, if someone truly believed beer wasn't good for you, why
such a person be into homebrewing in the first place?

Hank,
I followed your link and it looks like a pretty good option. I too have had
a ruptured disc and try to be extremely careful now.
Question, the metal loops at the top of the motor assembly, how strong are
they? Are they the mounting points I assume?
My thoughts are to mount a 3/4" (?) pipe from the floor joists in my

Not a problem at all, Bill! I appreciate your thoughtful approach and
the fact that you can accept my "because I said so!" explanations!
---------->Denny

snip
No problem, Denny. I played with the math a little bit and finally
arrived at the conclusion that maximum potential extraction IS improved
by adding some sparge water before drawing first runnings, so if the
potential is greater then I'm sure that the actual extraction is
greater, too. Thanks for your patience with me.

jimbeaux <evansjimo...@gmail.com>:
Thought and BMC products usually don't mix, so you deserve
credit there.
If you can improve a brew by diluting it, I say go for it. This
would be a good use for megaswill (AKA "beer water" or "water
beer" in the "carbonated water" style).
OTOH, if it's about economics, I'd cut out the middle man and

And it's awesome. This is what I've been missing. Lately I've been so unimpressed with my brews that I've been brewing less and buying my beer. I keg for the most part, so maybe what I need to do is secondary these beers and let them age a while in bulk before I keg. Also bottle more and let them sit on the shelf for a long while, maybe that will get me excited about homebrew again...

By the way, the stout was an all extract with some specialty grains and its one of the cleanest tasting beers I've tasted from my lil brewery in a long damn time. I'd say it's on par with my all grain batched and other fine all grain batches another local brewer makes.

The only problem I have with the stout is no head. None at all. What can I try on my next one to boost head retention? I do mostly extract if that helps.

Hello everybody,

My basic brown ale is going to be ready for bottling soon, and I've already begun to realize the obsessive draw of this hobby. I have plans to start two batches right away (I'm buying a second carboy and airlock). The first is going to be a black cherry porter (I've talked to folks who have tried similar brews and said they tasted delightfully like chocolate covered cherries). I searched this forum and found this recipe:

QUOTERecipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.50 Wort Size (Gal): 5.50
Total Grain (Lbs): 10.00
Anticipated OG: 1.049 Plato: 12.19
Anticipated SRM: 21.8
Anticipated IBU: 35.1
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
80.0 8.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) Great Britain 1.038 3
10.0 1.00 lbs. Munich Malt Germany 1.037 8
5.0 0.50 lbs. Chocolate Malt Great Britain 1.034 475
5.0 0.50 lbs. Crystal 10L America 1.035 10

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.50 oz. East Kent Goldings Pellet 3.30 19.9 90 min.
0.75 oz. Fuggle Pellet 5.00 10.8 30 min.
0.50 oz. Fuggle Pellet 5 4.4 15 min.


Yeast
-----

White Labs WLP013 London Ale

To this I may add a couple pounds of black cherries but most of the cherry flavor will be gotten from the 1/2 gallon of black cherry juice (not concentrate) that I will be adding to secondary. I may or may not also add the real fruit just to get a bit more flavor complexity.

Here is the help I need (if you can be bothered):
1. I would like to convert this recipe for extract brewing (since I'm still a newbie and afraid to mash for myself). The extract I'm thinking of using is here.
2. I would like to make a smaller batch (just under 2 gallons) for two reasons: (1) shortage of storage space and bottles and (2) to try the recipe out and see if I like it and if any of my friends like it.
3. I'm thinking of increasing the chocolate flavoring malt because it doesn't sound like very much, but I'd like to hear from someone who has tried this recipe or a similar one first.

Thanks in advance for your help!

American Pale Ale II (5 gallon batch)

INGREDIENTS:
10 lb 2-row
1.5 lb crystal 15L
0.5 lb honey malt

2 oz glacier (60 min)
2 oz williamette (5 min)
2 oz cascade (1 min)

0.7 oz gypsum for the strike water (I'm pretty sure I have this right but I already have another thread about it so it can be discussed HERE)

note: I'm figuring I need about 7 gallons in my brew kettle to end up with 5 (based on past experience)

AG EQUIPMENT:
70 qt Coleman Extreme cooler with batch sparging modifications
5 gal HLT
10 gal brew kettle

MASH:
strike water volume: 3.75 gals @ 165 degF (shooting for 154 degF, someone please confirm this!!)
note: I may do what skiwithg recommend and heat up my water to a little hotter than 165 degF and add it to my cooler first and then wait until it cools to this temp before adding my grain
mix in grains, let sit for 60 mins
assuming absorption of 1.2 gal (12lb*0.1gal/lb) I'll add in 1 gal of water @ 180 degF (again unsure of this, someone please confirm temperature)
mix again, vorlauf, drain into brew kettle

SPARGE:
sparge water volume: 3.5 gals @ 190 degF (shooting for 170 degF, again someone confirm this)
mix in grain, let sit for 10 mins, mix again
vorlauf, drain into brew kettle

continue on as I normally would doing an extract batch...

EDITS DONE IN PINK

I have never brewed beer but am looking for a good way to start. Should I buy a Mr Beer kit or one of the kits similar to this

Does one make a better quality beer?
How do they compare to cheap american beers like Coors lite, bud lite, Coors, and Budweiser? Is it the same watered down taste.

Thanks for any help

I am looking for a 15 gallon stainless steel brew pot. I am looking at the Bayou Classic and the one at More Beer both 60 qt pots. I have also looked at the Bayou Classic sp14 burner (read on a previous thread this was pretty good).

I do mostly 5 gallon batches but would like to do some 10 gallon batches.

Anyone have pros/cons for either or both pots? I am open for any other suggestions for selection of a brew pot?